Hiking the Tongariro Crossing
During our three trips to New Zealand, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing was on our wishlist every single time. But, as we quickly learned, the mountains and the weather have their own agenda. The first two times, we had to skip the hike, the weather simply did not cooperate. And if you are going to take on this iconic trail, you want to do it under the best possible conditions.
But during our last three-month trip at the end of 2023, we finally made it happen. This time, we took extra time to explore more of the North Island and, most importantly, to wait for the perfect moment to tackle the Crossing. Because let’s be honest: a clear day does not just make the hike more enjoyable, it allows you to truly take in the spectacular views of volcanoes, colorful lakes, and the almost otherworldly landscape.
In this blog, we are sharing everything you need to know about this legendary hike. From practical tips and preparation advice to our own experience on the trail. How tough is the hike, really? What should you bring? And what can you expect along the way? We have got you covered.
So sit back, get inspired by our adventure, and who knows… maybe you will soon find yourself standing face to face with the rugged, untamed landscapes of Tongariro National Park!
What is the Tongariro Crossing
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is not just any hike. It is truly considered an epic day hike through one of the most otherworldly landscapes in New Zealand. Located in Tongariro National Park, right in the middle of the North Island, this 20.2-kilometer trail winds through an area so unique that it is both a World Heritage Site and a filming location for The Lord of the Rings. Yes, you are literally walking through the land of Mount Doom.
So what makes the Tongariro Crossing so legendary? Well, pretty much everything. You start in a flat but rugged volcanic landscape, gradually climb towards the Red Crater (the highest and steepest section), and along the way, you are treated to jaw-dropping views. At least, if the weather cooperates. If it is cloudy or foggy, you will not see a thing. But on a clear day, think vibrant, emerald-green lakes like the Emerald Lakes, which seem to glow in an almost surreal way. You pass steaming fumaroles, black lava fields, and rolling hills that make you feel like you are walking on Mars (no Elon Musk in sight).
And then, the views… On a clear day, you can see the volcanoes Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe in the distance, and sometimes even as far as the west coast of the North Island. We had an exceptionally clear day and could see Mount Taranaki, about 100 km away. But make no mistake, this hike is not just about selfies and viewpoints. It is a challenging and sometimes treacherous hike, and the weather can change in an instant. But hey, that only adds to the adventure!
In short, this hike should be high on the list for anyone who loves nature, adventure, and a bit of a challenge.
What is the best time to hike the Tongariro Crossing
So when is the best time to do the Tongariro Alpine Crossing? Well, that depends on whether you prefer epic views or enjoy suffering through wind, rain, and mist.
Let’s start with the ideal season: late spring, summer, and early autumn (November to April) are the best times. This is when the weather is the most stable, temperatures are pleasant, and your chances of clear views are the highest. Plus, you are less likely to face the extra challenge of snow and ice on the trail, because trust us, climbing Red Crater on slippery shoes is anything but fun. Although, we did see someone do it in flip-flops on a perfect blue-sky day.
If you want to avoid the crowds, then weekdays and early mornings are your best friends. In the peak summer months, the trail can be packed, and nothing ruins the magic of an otherworldly landscape like a slow-moving line of hikers on a narrow path.
And then there is winter (May to October). Sounds exciting, but unless you are experienced in mountain trekking under extreme conditions (or happen to be an adventurous polar bear), this is not the time to go. The trail is often covered in snow and ice, requiring specialized gear and usually a guide. In fact, the track is frequently closed in winter, and even in summer, The NZ Department of Conservation can decide to close the trail at any time, depending on conditions.
Conclusion? Plan smart, check the weather, and go for that epic blue-sky day! In the week leading up to our hike, we stayed near the national park and monitored the weather daily to pick the perfect moment. So do not plan for just one specific day, keep a few backup days in your itinerary for flexibility. You can check the latest weather updates and safety advisories on the official Tongariro Crossing website, which has a dedicated weather section.
How difficult is the Tongariro Crossing
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is not a relaxed afternoon stroll, but a serious day hike covering 20.2 kilometers, with approx. an 800-meter ascent and a 1,200-meter descent. This means you will need more than just a good fitness level, you will need strong legs and a solid dose of determination.
The hike starts off relatively easy with a 1.5-hour walk to Soda Springs, but soon enough, you will be face to face with the Devil’s Staircase, a steep climb where you gain significant elevation in a short time. After that, the South Crater offers a stunning but brief flat section, giving you a chance to catch your breath before tackling the climb to Red Crater, the highest point of the hike at 1,886 meters. This section is steep and sometimes tricky due to loose rocks, but once you reach the top, the breathtaking views make every step worth it.
From there, the long descent begins, passing the Emerald Lakes and leading to Blue Lake, where your feet will feel the strain of the loose ash and rocks. And while descending might sound easier, anyone who has ever descended 1,200 meters knows that your knees might disagree.
The final part of the trail winds through a long forest section, where your legs will likely switch to autopilot, but you will still be rewarded with stunning views towards Lake Taupo. And once you finally reach the finish, collapse onto the ground, and scroll through your photos, you know for sure: this hike is tough, but absolutely worth it!
How to prepare, what to pack and safety and weather tips?
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is an epic day hike that you don’t just do on a whim; proper preparation is essential to making this adventure a success. Here are our tips to get ready:
Plan your transport and parking: During peak season, up to 3,000 people hike the Crossing daily. This makes it crucial to arrange your parking and shuttles in advance. There are limited parking spots at both the start and finish points, so booking a shuttle is often the best option. We booked one from the Whakapapa Village campsite, where we stayed overnight.
Know how long it takes: The Crossing is 20.2 kilometers long, and experienced hikers take between 6 and 8 hours to complete it. This is not a race, start early, take your time to enjoy the landscape, and listen to your body.
Choose the right accommodation: Since you will be starting early in the morning, it is wise to stay nearby. There are various options, from campgrounds to lodges, but book in advance to avoid disappointment. As mentioned, we camped at Whakapapa Village.
Dress for all weather conditions: Weather in Tongariro National Park can change rapidly. Wear layers, including a waterproof jacket and sturdy hiking shoes. Don’t forget sunscreen and a hat, the sun at altitude can be deceptively strong. Yo FlipFlop Nation, this is NOT for you!
Prioritize safety: The Crossing is stunning, but it can be dangerous if you are unprepared. Let someone know you are hiking and when you expect to return. Bring at least 2 liters of water per person, high-energy snacks, and a basic first-aid kit. Always check the weather forecast before setting out and be ready to adjust your plans if conditions worsen.
Understand the route: The Crossing consists of several sections, each with its own challenges. It helps to study the route in advance, so you know what to expect and can mentally prepare for the steeper parts.
With these tips, you will be well on your way to completing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing safely and enjoyably. Remember: good preparation is the difference between an unforgettable experience and an exhausting ordeal!
Our Tongariro Crossing Experience
As mentioned, we waited for the perfect weather. During our first trip, we drove through Tongariro National Park and saw… nothing! Mist. Grey. A complete waste. We also would have skipped the Tongariro Crossing if it had been cloudy, rainy, or too windy. But on our third trip, we set aside a full week to wait for the perfect window. And sure enough, we got it, a crystal-clear Sunday in early November 2023. Mid-spring, still chilly nights, and just as expected: when we woke up at 5:00 AM, it was well below freezing. But no wind, clear skies, it doesn’t get better than that.
We camped at Whakapapa Village campsite, where you can book a shuttle to the start (and back). With various time slots and a cost of $30 NZD (€18) per person, it is worth every cent. Arriving relaxed and starting early? Check!
As experienced hikers, we know: layers are key. You start near freezing, but as the sun rises and you climb, temperatures easily reach 10-15°C. Layers come off, layers go back on, and sturdy hiking boots are a must. A good breakfast (bread and fruit), a backpack packed with sandwiches, bananas, protein bars, and 2 liters of water per person, and we were ready to go. The weather forecast? Clear, warming temperatures, no wind, a solid 9+ for hiking weather.
At 6:00 AM, we hit the trail. Perfect timing, the sun was rising, and the first hour towards Soda Springs was a stunning, gradual warm-up. Mount Ruapehu remained in sight the entire way. From Soda Springs, the real work began, a steep climb to South Crater. Some sections were steep and tricky, especially where the frozen path began to thaw. As we climbed, we could see behind us a long line of hikers who had started at 7:00 AM. Even better? The landscape of Tongariro National Park unfolded like a painting, and in the distance, Mount Taranaki, a full 100 km away, was clearly visible.
South Crater is relatively flat but incredibly impressive, surrounded by surreal colors and volcanic formations. Then comes the climb to Red Crater, the highest point at 1,886 meters. Here is a tip: keep looking back! Many hikers focus only on the path ahead, but the best views are often behind you. The final push is tough, but once at the top…. pure satisfaction. It was around 11:00 AM, and as always, we took plenty of time for photos, food, and simply enjoying the moment.
From Red Crater, the steep descent begins over loose volcanic gravel, a matter of digging your feet in, letting yourself slide, and shifting your weight forward. In the distance, the Emerald Lakes shimmered, and just beyond lay the larger Blue Lake. The trail between Emerald Lakes and Blue Lake is gentle and not too challenging, the perfect lunch spot, basking in the warm sun and soaking in the views.
The long descent felt a bit dull for Ella, but the views south towards Lake Taupo more than made up for it. By 2:30 PM, we reached the finish, just in time for the shuttle.
A magical hike, a day to remember forever.
Hiking the Tongariro Crossing
Prepare well to avoid surprises during the Hike
Final thoughts, is the Tongariro Crossing worth it?
Absolutely! Of course, not everyone gets lucky with the weather, and yes, the descent can feel long and sometimes a bit monotonous. But if you are well-prepared and wait for a clear day, this hike is truly an amazing experience.
As with so many things, half the fun is in the anticipation. And that definitely applies to the Tongariro Crossing. Good preparation allows you to fully enjoy the hike, the nature, the views, and the unique spots along the way. From the rising sun over Ruapehu to the surreal colors of the Emerald Lakes, these are the moments that make you think: yes, this is what it is all about!
Planning to hike the Tongariro Crossing? Make sure you are at least somewhat fit, so you don’t just get through it but actually enjoy it to the fullest. Use our tips, pick a good day, and seize the opportunity to complete one of the most stunning day hikes in the world.
Do you have any questions? Any at all? Drop them here! We are happy to help you prepare for an unforgettable hiking experience.